Adam Weight | Adam Ondra #38: What Is The Best Body Type For Climbing?

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Adam Ondra #38: What Is The Best Body Type For Climbing?


What type of character is best for climbing. What a climber needs to to be able to push the limits in climbing. Is it good to be high or low? It’s good to be slim or muscular and have more strength. Let’s try to answer that. I started climbing very early. As a child, I was very slim and short. I always relied on climbing on strong fingers. I lacked strength, especially explosive strength. I’d say shorter fingers are better because you have a smaller lever. But a smaller arm span also means that don’t stick modern, bigger catches in races. As for the thickness of the fingers, I would say wider are better. Wider fingers mean more power and are less prone to injury. However, wide fingers do not have to fit into a two-finger. Or you have to take the one-finger with your little finger. The power in my fingers. I think for the last twenty years did not improve. I was able to hold on at seven on similar catches as now. Because I was low. I always had to get around. The catches somehow further apart. I found a small catch, for example, or just trying to be creative. I’m eleven years old here. It’s my first 8b +. I don’t have much tension in my body, and my style is not very sure. Looks like I’m going to fall any minute. But I’m still moving on. As a teenager, I was still slim and didn’t have much strength. But it was good. It made me find the best technique because I didn’t have the strength to climb Heavy sections. At fifteen, I grew to almost 180 centimeters. But I didn’t even have 60 kilos. I wasn’t strong, but I had my style. I was very fast and I found the best body positions. They built this wall when I was Seventeen won the Bouldering World Cup. I was so bad that I couldn’t climb 1, 4, 7. It’s more of a warm-up now. I’ll do it five times in a row. It was previously believed that the perfect climber should be slim. Today, however, the style of racing and on the rocks has changed. The roads are steeper. You need more strength. So it’s not good to be too slim. I have also gained more strength in recent years and I gained weight. In climbing on difficulty, I am in the best shape when I have 70 kilos. I have the most strength for Boulder at 72 kilos. My weight changes. When I train a lot, the muscles hold water and I have two pounds more. But before the competition, I train less and lose weight. A lot of people think I’m a tall climber with a huge monkey index. What is a monkey index? It is the arm span minus height. The average in the population is around zero. But there is a common positive index among climbers. Some would say I have a large arm span, but at my height, it’s normal. My ape index is about +1 centimeter. When you want to reach for a catch, it is advantageous to have a large range Otherwise. It is a disadvantage. You have a bigger lever, so it’s harder to keep. With a large margin, it’s hard to have stamina. A smaller range may be advantageous, for example for lower catches. Body height is then more or less insignificant in climbing Arm span is important. I measure 186 centimeters, but I won’t reach that high because my shoulders are low and my neck is high. Sometimes the catch seems to be close, But when I was little, I learned compensate for your height with high steps, which I do to this day. I don’t think there’s a perfect figure to climb, but you must know your strengths and weaknesses. I know I’m tall and relatively heavy, but I have a fast, accurate and effective style. I also need to be mobile and flexible when, for example. I do not reach the high steps. Don’t worry about that. You are too low or too high. It’s up to you to find your style. Take advantage of your climbing while climbing.

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